Delhi is quiet for a few hours between 1am and 4am and then the chanting begins followed by drums, barking dogs, banging pots, tooting horns, spitting and yelling. It is a constant that almost makes the silence eerie. When we step outside our hotel the air is thick with an elixr of cardamon, incense, smoke, aniseed and urine. Strangely, the smell is not unpleasant.
So with a head full of noise and lungs full of smoke we brave the traffic, men and beggars and hit the town. Crossing the road at this stage makes my blood run cold. I feel like I am dancing with death and have quickly learnt to follow close to the locals. There is so much to look at and look out for that my head is dizzy in concentration. I can feel culture shock quickly creeping up. Nothing can prepare you for India!